Category: Photography

Topics, prompts, or occasions, which make me take the photos as an assignment!

AtoZ Challenge: R – Red Eye Reduction

Red Eye Reduction

The phenomenon of red eye occurs when the flash is incident on the eyes and gets reflected back by a dilated pupil.
The eye’s pupil dilates and shrinks as per the need for an optimum eye sight. In case there is low light, the pupil dilates to let in more light, while it shrinks if there is excess light.

When, in a low light condition, a flash is fired, the pupil doesn’t get enough time to shrink and the light illuminates the retina, which is captured by the camera. This causes the red eye effect. The following photo of Nikhila exhibits the issue.

The above shot was taken at a low light condition with flash being fired directly at her.

In the following shot, also in a low light condition, the flash was fired with the Red Eye Reduction mode enabled.

What this mode does is, in Nikon cameras, it lets out a strong light from a bulb at the subject so that their pupils shrink, and then the photo is taken; while in Canon cameras, the flash strobes and then the actual shot is taken, giving similar results.

Red Eye is not an issue if there is already a sustained light incident on your subject, as evident from the following shot of Milind Soman.

DSC_2701-10

So, while shooting in a low light condition, if you are forced to use flash, it is useful to have a red eye reduction mode switched on, or have some sort of light on your subject’s face.

The Red Eye phenomenon has a medical aspect to it too. In case, in any of your photos, you notice that a person is exhibiting red eye in just one of the eyes, do recommend a visit to the doctors to that person, for it may be a case of leukocoria.

Let me know about your brushes with red eye in the comments.

Last time, R was for Rear Curtain.

Cheers!!

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AtoZ Challenge: Q – Quality

Quality

Today, we talk about quality of a photo. Not of what has been shot, but rather the format it has been shot on.
In today’s day to day use, a full frame sensor can be considered to be the gold standard in terms of quality. But with increasing technological advancements, the crop sensors are catching up too.

I used to use a Nikon D3100, which would start graining up at ISO 800, while now, in the D7200, ISO 12800 is still quite grainless. In comparison, Nikon full frame, D750 shoots excellent shots at ISO 25600 without a hitch.
Then there is the JPEG vs RAW war raging. JPEG is fine if you abhor editing or have to submit the shots on a very short notice. RAW is amazing for pulling out details which may have been originally not visible.

In the end, it shall all come down your application and use. Here, on this site, every single photo, is less than 1 MB in size for I am not using them to print, but while printing, I go for the uncompressed 28/30 MB photo.

Tell me what are your preferences in the comments!

Last time, Q was for Quiet Release.

Cheers!!

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AtoZ Challenge: P – Panning

Panning

To pan is to move from side to side, holding a fixed vertical level. In photography, the concept is similar, except, this time, we try to match the speed of the subject, and the speed of panning, while controlling the shutter speed.

The idea is to shoot slow enough to capture motion, while moving in the direction of the subject, at the speed at which the subject crosses the frame, so that the relative speed between the camera and the subject is zero. The outcome, in a proof of concept mode, is the photo below.

Panning, Mumbai

With practice, one can nail tack sharp panned photos and let me tell you this, they look amazing.

Go out, give panning a try. It is worth learning how.

Last time, P was for Post Processing.

Cheers!!

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AtoZ Challenge: O – Optical Zoom

Optical Zoom

Zoom can be described as to close in on your subject. In a camera, it can be achieved in mainly three different ways.

The first one is the basic one, which involves the photographer moving close to the subject.
The second type of zoom is what we are going to talk about here today, optical zoom. It is when the lens within the barrel actually moves to change the focal length and hence zoom. This change in focal length causes the subject to appear closer or farther away depending on the use. Image quality does not degrade while using optical zoom.

The images below show the use of optical zoom. The viewpoint has not changed, just the focal length has changed from about 55mm to 180/200mm.

Optical zoom, trains, Dudhsagar

At the far end, Trains, Dudhsagar

The third type is the digital zoom. This is where the camera, using its own algorithms, zooms in on the image. It has the previously captured image to begin with and then works on it. The photo quality degrades and after a certain point, it begins to pixellate.

So, dear readers, if you are buying a new point and shoot camera, it is always the optical zoom that you should pay heed to.

Last time, O was for Overexposure.

Cheers!

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AtoZ Challenge: N – Normal Lens

A normal lens is one which produces images corresponding to the normal viewing span of a human eye. Generally this focal length is taken as 35-50mm. So, photos taken at focal lengths beyond the range are termed to be wide or telephoto and hence the wide and telephoto lenses.

The 18-55 mm kit lens, despite popular disregard, is one the most versatile lenses out there and can be used for shooting landscapes to portraits with ease and still produce quite amazing results.

Bandra Worli Sealink, 18 mm

Bandra Worli Sealink, 55 mm

The photos above have been shot at 18mm and 55mm respectively from almost similar viewpoints.

Comparing the results against dedicated lenses for the same is not a fair game though. The dedicated lens, such as a 35mm or a 50mm F1.8/1.4 are meant to be high performance and have immense light gathering power, but they lack the versatility of a zoom.

The photo of Laxmi here shows why it is worth investing in a prime lens, despite whatever limitations it may have.

Portrait, 50mm

All said and done, a normal lens is not fit for shooting landscape while I would go about shooting portraits on a normal lens all day long happily! Tell me what do you think about the judgments in the comments.

Last time, N was for Noise Reduction.

Cheers!!

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AtoZ Challenge: M – Manual Mode

Manual Mode

This is for the ones who want total control over the photo. You get to control your shutter speed, aperture and ISO. Based on the need, you can tweak whatever settings you need and you have complete set of settings right at your fingertips.
Often, we hear that pros shoot only in manual mode, believe me, its just a fad. Pros know when to shoot in what mode, that’s all. Getting a photo is much important that shooting at manual mode and screwing the photo altogether.
Personally I use manual mode in conditions where either I have control over on my subject, or if my subject is not going change abruptly.

Go out there and explore the other modes as well and let me know, what is your most used mode. Mine is Shutter Priority.

Last time, M was for Macro.

Cheers!!

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AtoZ Challenge: L – Latitude

Latitude

This is here is a term which is used to describe a range. Common usage being, a certain camera provides more/less latitude than another one. The range in question is the exposure range, over which one can produce acceptable results.

Mumbai Skyline, Clouds, Sun

The above photo is “As shot” +2 exposure value, while the one below is -1.

Mumbai Skyline, Clouds, Sun, Silhouette

So, one can say that the latitude from -1 to +2 for the camera. The definition is subjective and shall vary from person to person and on their opinion on what acceptable means to them.
Latitude is not the same as Dynamic Range. DR is the range in which, either in highlights or in shadows, details can be obtained before they white or black out, respectively. They are instead related in the manner that, a sensor with a higher dynamic range shall produce photos which have a wider latitude. I had covered basics of High Dynamic Range photos earlier, here!

Last time, L was for Lens Distortion.

Go ahead and produce some amazing photos, and let us all know about it.

Cheers!!

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AtoZ Challenge: K – Keylight

Keylight

Often referred to as the most important light in the photo, it is the one which makes your photo come alive in terms of depth and dimensions. One needs to choose their primary source of light and its use or the lack of it can create varied effects, as intended by the photographer. While making a light map of the shoot, generally, the key lights are the first ones which are put into place.

The following shot was taken without a key light in place.

Bubbles in focus, no key light

Now, with the introduction of a key light into the scene, the results, I find, are quite adorable 😉

Key Light being used for lighting

It is easy to realize that having a key light can mean a lot of difference in the final photo.

Immense thanks to Tuhina for being my model over and over again.

Last time, for K, it was Kelvin.

Go ahead and shoot some stunning portraits.

Cheers!!

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AtoZ Challenge: J – Juxtapose

Juxtapose

We are aware of what contrast is. What if the contrast in the photo is not just in terms of light and colour, but rather in terms of physical objects? Then what we have done is juxtaposition. If done correctly, this is one of the best techniques to create a photo that shall speak volumes for itself.

Cycle, Rickshaw and a Scooty, Holi

It might feel tricky at times, the simple way is to find contrasts, in terms of physical description, age, emotion, weather….virtually anything and everything.

Last time, J was for JPEG vs RAW.

Good luck shooting some amazing shots out there, Cheers!

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AtoZ Challenge: I – Infinity Focus

Infinity Focus

Often we hear the term “Infinity Focus” being used while shooting landscapes or during astro photography. What it actually means is, the focus plane to be such that maximum light rays which focus on the sensor shall be in parallel plane.

While shooting landscape photos, we focus at a plane, where the infinity of the lens is within the hyperfocal distance; but while shooting in astro photography, the focus is at infinity. This post elaborates more on the point.

In practice, sometimes, due to ambient conditions, the camera may not be able to focus correctly and give results of the following kind.

Hazy photo of a landscape

This is where the infinity focussing is useful. Since the object is far away from the lens, focussing in a manner where the subject is in the hyperfocal infinity, yields a better result.

Clear Photo of landscape

The infinity markings on the lens are found in the following ways

Infinity markings on lens

Go out there and shoot beautiful landscapes and amazing star trails and milky ways and never worry about soft focus any more.

Last time, I was for ISO.

Cheers!!

 

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AtoZ Challenge: H – Hot Shoe

Hot Shoe

It is a mounting arrangement found on the top of the camera bodies for mounting external flashes, commander modules, GPS modules etc. The hot shoe is generally found in a standard form and the various compatibility issues arise due to the different firing voltages which trigger them.

Nikon D7200, Hot shoe, Black and White

One may not find daily use of the hot shoe but it sure is an indispensable bit of the camera.

Tell me in the comments what do you generally mount on the hotshoe!

Last time, it was Hyperfocal Distance.

Cheers!!

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AtoZ Challenge: G – Ghosting

Ghosting

Ghosting is a phenomenon that is observed if there is strong light directly incident on the lens and it reflects off the various lens elements, the diaphragms and even the sensor, and causes multiple translucent artefacts to be created. This often causes the photo quality to degrade. One of the ways past this is to use a lens hood, or to use polarizer filters.

Ghosting, Marine Drive, Mumbai, Light Trails. Long Exposure

The above photo shows examples of ghosting.

Tell me, how do you deal with this?

Last time, it G was for Grain.

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