Tag: AtoZ Challenge

AtoZ Challenge: N – Normal Lens

A normal lens is one which produces images corresponding to the normal viewing span of a human eye. Generally this focal length is taken as 35-50mm. So, photos taken at focal lengths beyond the range are termed to be wide or telephoto and hence the wide and telephoto lenses.

The 18-55 mm kit lens, despite popular disregard, is one the most versatile lenses out there and can be used for shooting landscapes to portraits with ease and still produce quite amazing results.

Bandra Worli Sealink, 18 mm

Bandra Worli Sealink, 55 mm

The photos above have been shot at 18mm and 55mm respectively from almost similar viewpoints.

Comparing the results against dedicated lenses for the same is not a fair game though. The dedicated lens, such as a 35mm or a 50mm F1.8/1.4 are meant to be high performance and have immense light gathering power, but they lack the versatility of a zoom.

The photo of Laxmi here shows why it is worth investing in a prime lens, despite whatever limitations it may have.

Portrait, 50mm

All said and done, a normal lens is not fit for shooting landscape while I would go about shooting portraits on a normal lens all day long happily! Tell me what do you think about the judgments in the comments.

Last time, N was for Noise Reduction.

Cheers!!

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AtoZ Challenge: M – Manual Mode

Manual Mode

This is for the ones who want total control over the photo. You get to control your shutter speed, aperture and ISO. Based on the need, you can tweak whatever settings you need and you have complete set of settings right at your fingertips.
Often, we hear that pros shoot only in manual mode, believe me, its just a fad. Pros know when to shoot in what mode, that’s all. Getting a photo is much important that shooting at manual mode and screwing the photo altogether.
Personally I use manual mode in conditions where either I have control over on my subject, or if my subject is not going change abruptly.

Go out there and explore the other modes as well and let me know, what is your most used mode. Mine is Shutter Priority.

Last time, M was for Macro.

Cheers!!

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AtoZ Challenge: L – Latitude

Latitude

This is here is a term which is used to describe a range. Common usage being, a certain camera provides more/less latitude than another one. The range in question is the exposure range, over which one can produce acceptable results.

Mumbai Skyline, Clouds, Sun

The above photo is “As shot” +2 exposure value, while the one below is -1.

Mumbai Skyline, Clouds, Sun, Silhouette

So, one can say that the latitude from -1 to +2 for the camera. The definition is subjective and shall vary from person to person and on their opinion on what acceptable means to them.
Latitude is not the same as Dynamic Range. DR is the range in which, either in highlights or in shadows, details can be obtained before they white or black out, respectively. They are instead related in the manner that, a sensor with a higher dynamic range shall produce photos which have a wider latitude. I had covered basics of High Dynamic Range photos earlier, here!

Last time, L was for Lens Distortion.

Go ahead and produce some amazing photos, and let us all know about it.

Cheers!!

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AtoZ Challenge: K – Keylight

Keylight

Often referred to as the most important light in the photo, it is the one which makes your photo come alive in terms of depth and dimensions. One needs to choose their primary source of light and its use or the lack of it can create varied effects, as intended by the photographer. While making a light map of the shoot, generally, the key lights are the first ones which are put into place.

The following shot was taken without a key light in place.

Bubbles in focus, no key light

Now, with the introduction of a key light into the scene, the results, I find, are quite adorable 😉

Key Light being used for lighting

It is easy to realize that having a key light can mean a lot of difference in the final photo.

Immense thanks to Tuhina for being my model over and over again.

Last time, for K, it was Kelvin.

Go ahead and shoot some stunning portraits.

Cheers!!

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AtoZ Challenge: J – Juxtapose

Juxtapose

We are aware of what contrast is. What if the contrast in the photo is not just in terms of light and colour, but rather in terms of physical objects? Then what we have done is juxtaposition. If done correctly, this is one of the best techniques to create a photo that shall speak volumes for itself.

Cycle, Rickshaw and a Scooty, Holi

It might feel tricky at times, the simple way is to find contrasts, in terms of physical description, age, emotion, weather….virtually anything and everything.

Last time, J was for JPEG vs RAW.

Good luck shooting some amazing shots out there, Cheers!

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AtoZ Challenge: I – Infinity Focus

Infinity Focus

Often we hear the term “Infinity Focus” being used while shooting landscapes or during astro photography. What it actually means is, the focus plane to be such that maximum light rays which focus on the sensor shall be in parallel plane.

While shooting landscape photos, we focus at a plane, where the infinity of the lens is within the hyperfocal distance; but while shooting in astro photography, the focus is at infinity. This post elaborates more on the point.

In practice, sometimes, due to ambient conditions, the camera may not be able to focus correctly and give results of the following kind.

Hazy photo of a landscape

This is where the infinity focussing is useful. Since the object is far away from the lens, focussing in a manner where the subject is in the hyperfocal infinity, yields a better result.

Clear Photo of landscape

The infinity markings on the lens are found in the following ways

Infinity markings on lens

Go out there and shoot beautiful landscapes and amazing star trails and milky ways and never worry about soft focus any more.

Last time, I was for ISO.

Cheers!!

 

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AtoZ Challenge: H – Hot Shoe

Hot Shoe

It is a mounting arrangement found on the top of the camera bodies for mounting external flashes, commander modules, GPS modules etc. The hot shoe is generally found in a standard form and the various compatibility issues arise due to the different firing voltages which trigger them.

Nikon D7200, Hot shoe, Black and White

One may not find daily use of the hot shoe but it sure is an indispensable bit of the camera.

Tell me in the comments what do you generally mount on the hotshoe!

Last time, it was Hyperfocal Distance.

Cheers!!

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AtoZ Challenge: G – Ghosting

Ghosting

Ghosting is a phenomenon that is observed if there is strong light directly incident on the lens and it reflects off the various lens elements, the diaphragms and even the sensor, and causes multiple translucent artefacts to be created. This often causes the photo quality to degrade. One of the ways past this is to use a lens hood, or to use polarizer filters.

Ghosting, Marine Drive, Mumbai, Light Trails. Long Exposure

The above photo shows examples of ghosting.

Tell me, how do you deal with this?

Last time, it G was for Grain.

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AtoZ Challenge: F – Forced Perspective

Forced Perspective

Take a good long look at the picture below.

Forced Perspective Example

Often we see photos of people holding the tip of Eiffel Tower or leaning against the Leaning Tower of Pisa or even gobbling up the sun. That is what forced perspective is all about. We use the camera settings in such a way that the difference between the foreground and the background is intentionally blurred.

Now look at the photo below.
Explaining Forced Perspective

You notice that all the objects are in different planes, yet in the first photo they seem to be kept side by side. That is the beauty of forced perspective.

Go have some fun with the optical illusion!

Last time, it was Focus Stacking.

Cheers!!

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AtoZ Challenge: E – EXIF Data

EXIF Data

It is a condensed form of Exchange Image File format which is basically a standard format set to report the various parameters of a photograph. The data that are captured mostly include the make of the camera, shutter speed, focal length, the aperture, ISO. When suitably available, location coordinates are also available in the EXIF data. Extra information as to whether the flash fired or not, or the shutter count of a camera can also be found by studying the data.

Long Exposure photo, Fire works, Cars, Lighttrails, Mumbai

The EXIF Data for the above photo is shown here below as a screenshot from my phone.

Exif Data of the photo

This data is immensely useful if someone is trying to learn and take cues from other photographers as to what settings to be used in particular situations.

Do you check the exif data of other photogs?? Let me know!

Last time, it was Exposure Bracketing.

Cheers!!

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AtoZ Challenge: D – Double Exposure

Double Exposure

The origin of this interesting bit of art probably occured when someone, while shooting film, forgot to forward the roll to the next empty slot. As they shot, the already exposed negative got re-exposed and the photos superimposed creating something interesting and Voila! double exposure is born.
Now a days, we dont need to fiddle with the films, maybe just a bit in the digital darkrooms to get ourselves a nice double exposure photo. Some cameras and apps on phones allow you to take amazing double exposure shots.

Bike, Open Roads, Double Exposure
The shots here are proof of concept shots of double exposure.

Man, Moon, Double Exposure
The thing about double exposure is that one must be able to blend the photos and make some sense out of them.

Go ahead and make wonderful surreal photos and share them away!

Last time, D was for Depth of Field.

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AtoZ Challenge: C – Colour Temperature

Colour Temperature

Hot objects emit radiation. If the radiation were visible, say visible light, what would be the temperature of the body emitting the radiation? For example, for soft white light, it is accepted that the body must be at about 3000K. This 3000K is the colour temperature.

The usefulness of this knowledge in photography? Immense, unless you want to spend hours in the darkrooms making the photos look natural. The two photos below shall explain better.

Pug, Yellow Light, Cute, Unrealistic Colour
This one is a no colour correction photo, while the one below is with proper colour temperature settings dialled in.

Pug, Colour corrected, Brown and Blue , Realistic colours
Notice how the colour is realistic now. Since the place was lit by dim yellow lights, everything had a yellow tone, which is not the natural colour.
The settings that need to be tweaked within the camera to get realistic colours is the white balance. Dial in the on which matches your setting best, and shoot away.

Last time, it was Composition.

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